Discovering Benaocaz: A Hidden Gem in the Sierra de Cádiz

Benaocaz is a picturesque village located in the north-west of Cádiz province, south of the Tavizna River. It is part of the famous Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos (Route of the White Villages).

Benaocaz borders Grazalema to the north, Ubrique to the south, Villaluenga del Rosario to the east, and El Bosque to the west. The village is entirely within the Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema (Grazalema Natural Park), with the westernmost section also inside Los Alcornocales Natural Park.

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Historical Origins of Benaocaz

• Archaeological findings suggest Benaocaz has human roots dating back to the prehistoric era. Neolithic remains have been discovered in nearby caves such as those in La Manga and La Sima de la Veredilla.
• Remnants of Libyan-Phoenician pavements have been uncovered in the eastern part of the village, near Vegas del Río Majaceite and La Romana.
• Founded in 715 by the Arabs, Benaocaz remained under Muslim rule until its reconquest by the Christians in 1485. The village was then given to Don Rodrigo Ponce de León, who was tasked with repopulating it and distributing land.
• It wasn’t until the 17th century that Benaocaz gained independence through the purchase of jurisdictional rights from the Crown. The 18th century was a time of prosperity, but the early 19th century saw hardships due to the plague and the Peninsular War, which devastated the region, leading to the plundering and destruction of nearby villages.
• Benaocaz also holds a historical archive, with documents dating from 1515 to the present day.

How to Get to Benaocaz

Benaocaz is accessible via the A-374 road, which connects Ubrique and Ronda via Villaluenga del Rosario and Grazalema.

The Nazarene Quarter: A Historical Treasure

The Barrio Alto o Nazarí (High or Nazarene Quarter) is an area dating back to the Muslim period. Although many of the remaining architectural structures date to the 16th and 17th centuries, the area preserves the urban fabric, street layout, and size of houses from the era just before the Christian conquest. Remarkably, there are fortified houses and defensive towers, making this quarter a unique example in the Cádiz mountain range.

Unlike the usual walled settlements, the defensive nature of the Nazarene Quarter arises from its difficult-to-access location, thick walls, and a layout that minimizes openings to the outside, creating a fortified village. Notably, there are two surviving towers, now partially collapsed, which add to the historical charm of the area.

History Through the Ages

• The archaeological site of La Cueva de Millares confirms the human presence in Benaocaz since the Neolithic era. Other findings include Phoenician, Celtic, and Roman remains, including a Roman road connecting Benaocaz to Ubrique, which can still be explored today.
• Benaocaz was established by the Arabs in 715, with the settlement originally built around the Castillo de Aznalmara (now known as Tavizna).
• In 1410, the village was conquered by Christian forces, recaptured by the Muslims, and finally reconquered in 1485. It was then granted to Don Rodrigo Ponce de León. The 17th century saw progress for the village, but the plague and the devastation of the War of Independence interrupted its growth. In 1815, King Fernando VII granted the village independence from the Villa de Zahara.

Economy and Climate

• Benaocaz’s economy revolves around agriculture, livestock farming, and rural tourism.
• The climate is typical of high mountain regions, with clean, pure air that is often thought to be beneficial for those with respiratory conditions.

Monuments and Points of Interest

• Parroquia de San Pedro: This Renaissance-style church was built on the site of an old mosque. It houses the Cristo de la Columna (Christ of the Column) and a Crucified Christ from the mid-18th century.
• Ermita de San Blas: Built in 1716, this chapel features a single nave and a vaulted ceiling. It was renovated in 1924 and is known for its painted walls, which imitate architectural features.
• Ermita de El Calvario: Located just outside the town, this simple, whitewashed chapel dates from the early 18th century. It is renowned for its location atop a rocky hill, making it a striking landmark.
• The Town Hall: A Baroque building from the 18th century, with two floors and a historic archive containing documents dating from the 16th century.
• Barrio Nazarí: The most historic part of the village, preserving remnants of medieval Islamic street planning and ancient homes. Archaeological finds suggest the area was originally founded in Roman times.
• Calzada Romana: This Roman road once served as a key communication route between the towns of Ocuri and Lacílbula. Now a pleasant way to stroll from Benaocaz to the town of Ubrique.
• Castillo de Tavizna: A ruined castle perched on a hill, offering spectacular views of the surrounding valley.

Festivals and Events

• Fiestas de San Blas (February): Celebrating the patron saint with religious services and a lively procession, followed by folk music, traditional dances, and local food tastings.
• Semana Santa (April): The Good Friday Passion Procession, featuring seven “steps” (religious floats), is a key highlight of the Easter celebrations in Benaocaz.
• Romería en Honor del Patrón San Esteban (First Sunday in June): A pilgrimage to Agua Nueva, with a Mass, procession, and musical events.
• Feria y Fiestas Mayores (August): The local summer fair includes religious events, traditional Toro de Cuerda (bull run), concerts, and the iconic Vaquillas (small bull) events.

Gastronomy of Benaocaz

Benaocaz boasts a rich culinary tradition, especially in cured meats, thanks to the thriving livestock industry. The area is famous for its chacinas and embutidos (cured meats), with pork and game meat from wild boar, deer, partridge, and rabbit being popular.

Some of the region’s typical dishes include refrito Benaocaceño (a traditional stir-fry), cocido de tagarninas (stew with wild thistles), and olla (a hearty stew). As in much of the Sierra de Cádiz, you’ll also find gazpacho (cold tomato soup), ajos calientes (hot garlic soup), and scrambled dishes with green asparagus. Notable specialties include cabrito a la brasa (grilled kid goat), goat and sheep cheeses, and chicharrones (Pork scratching or “crackling”).

The village’s sweet treats include roscos trenzados (braided donuts), borrachos (sweet soaked pastries), and suspiros (meringue-based sweets).

Benaocaz Travel Guide: History, Attractions, and Local Secrets

Clive Muir

I’ve been living in this lovely area of Western Andalucia for the last 20 years or so and dedicate most of my time to the running of English language tourist information websites for the towns of Cádiz, Ronda, Grazalema, the famous or infamous Caminito del Rey, and also Wildside Holidays, which promotes sustainable and eco-friendly businesses running wildlife and walking holidays in Spain. My articles contain affiliate links that will help you reserve a hotel, bus, train or activity in the area. You don’t pay more, but by using them you do support this website. Thankyou!