Have you ever visited a place that feels like a portal to another world? That’s exactly what I experienced in Castellar de la Frontera, a tiny village perched atop a rocky hill in Los Alcornocales Natural Park. It’s a place where history whispers through ancient walls, where the air is fragrant with wild herbs, and where every sunset feels like a gift from the universe.

Staying at the Hotel Castillo de Castellar, a converted medieval fortress, was the cherry on top of this extraordinary journey. Here’s a glimpse into my unforgettable adventure in this hidden treasure of southern Spain.

Arrival at Castellar Viejo: A Medieval Embrace

The road to Castellar Viejo winds through lush cork oak forests, offering tantalizing glimpses of the castle above. As I rounded the final bend, I was greeted by the sight of whitewashed houses snugly tucked within the castle’s ancient walls. Above it all, the 13th-century fortress stood proudly, a silent sentinel overlooking the Guadarranque Reservoir, the Rock of Gibraltar, and, on a clear day, the African coastline.

Artists, bohemians, and hippies

In the 1970s, after the relocation of most residents to the newly built Castellar Nuevo, Castellar Viejo began attracting a new wave of inhabitants—artists, bohemians, and hippies. Drawn by the village’s tranquil beauty and the allure of living within medieval castle walls, they breathed new life into the old town.

A great article here in Spanish here.

This influx of free-spirited individuals gave the village a distinctive charm, blending its ancient Andalusian roots with a creative, countercultural energy. Even today, traces of this influence remain, from artisan workshops and craft boutiques to the laid-back ambiance of its cobbled streets. Staying in Castellar, you’ll sense this fusion of historical legacy and artistic spirit, making it a truly unique destination.

Staying in the Castle: A Dream Come True

At the heart of the village lies the Hotel Castillo de Castellar, a medieval fortress turned boutique hotel. Staying here wasn’t just accommodation; it was an experience. Check out prices and availability over at booking.com.

The hotel’s restaurant offered a feast for the senses. I savored dishes that celebrated Andalusian traditions, each bite a story of the land and its people. Highlights included:

• Starter – Sopa de espárragos: A simple yet divine asparagus soup, earthy and satisfying.
• Main course – Chivo a la caldereta: A hearty, slow-simmered goat stew, infused with a medley of aromatic herbs and spices. The tender meat, steeped in a rich, flavorful sauce, offers a perfect balance of rustic tradition and pure comfort. A true culinary highlight.
• Tarta de almendras: A decadent almond tart, the perfect sweet finale to a meal.

A Journey Through Time and Nature

Castellar is not just a place to stay—it’s a place to explore, to feel, and to connect.

The Castle and the Village

Walking through the castle, I marveled at its horseshoe arches and defensive towers, reminders of its Moorish origins. Built in the 13th century, this fortress played a pivotal role in the region’s history, defending the Nazarí kingdom from Christian incursions.

Inside, the village still retains its medieval charm. The layout is organic, with narrow alleys leading to small plazas. Locals sell handmade crafts, pottery, and honey from tiny shops, adding to the village’s authenticity.

Nature’s Majesty

Surrounded by the vast Los Alcornocales Natural Park, Castellar is a haven for nature lovers. One morning, I set off on a hike through the cork oak forests. The air was hot and filled with the scent of pine and wild herbs. Birds flitted between the trees, and in the distance, I spotted a herd of deer.

Here are a few other things to do in the area from Get Your Guide

For the adventurous, the nearby Guadarranque Reservoir offers kayaking and fishing opportunities, while the park’s trails are perfect for exploring on foot or bike. Even a leisurely drive through the park reveals breathtaking vistas and hidden waterfalls.

Culinary Delights of Castellar

The food in Castellar is a love letter to Andalusia. Local restaurants, many tucked into cozy corners of the old village, serve dishes that celebrate the region’s agricultural bounty and its deep culinary roots.

Here’s what made my taste buds dance:

• Venison stew: A hearty dish infused with wild herbs, reflecting the flavors of the surrounding forests.
• Conejo al ajillo: Tender rabbit cooked in garlic and olive oil, simple yet unforgettable.
• Sopa el chisparrero: A traditional soup made with foraged greens, bread, and olive oil, embodying the soul of rural Andalusian cuisine.

And of course, the proximity to the coast means that seafood lovers will also find plenty to enjoy, from freshly grilled fish to tangy marinated anchovies.

A View to Remember

During the evening, I climbed to the castle’s highest point to watch the sunset. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the landscape in golden hues, I felt a profound sense of peace. The view stretched out endlessly, from the Bay of Algeciras to the Strait of Gibraltar, where Europe and Africa almost touch.

Festivals, Culture, and Community

If you’re lucky, your visit might coincide with one of Castellar’s vibrant festivals. The Romería del Santísimo Cristo de la Almoraima in May brings the village alive with music, dancing, and religious processions, while the Velada del Castillo in August transforms the castle into a stage for flamenco performances under the stars.

Tips for Your Visit

• Getting There: Castellar is easily accessible by car. From Málaga, the A-7 and A-4100 take you through some of Andalusia’s most picturesque landscapes.
• Where to Stay: Beyond the Hotel Castillo de Castellar, consider staying at La Almoraima Hotel, a stunning former monastery surrounded by nature.
• When to Go: Spring and autumn are perfect for pleasant weather and blooming landscapes.

Why Castellar Should Be on Your List

Castellar de la Frontera isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a place to feel. It’s where history and nature come together to create something truly magical. Staying within the castle walls, exploring the lush forests, and tasting the rich flavors of Andalusian cuisine left me inspired and deeply connected to this corner of Spain.

If you’re yearning for an escape that nourishes the soul, Castellar is waiting to welcome you! It did me!

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